Garment construction



Feb. 23, 1943. l.. WEX'LER GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 19, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR Luxus Wxef im M ATTORN Ys Feb. 23, 1943. L, WEXLER 2,311,799

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 19, 1942 2 sheets-Stien 2 INVENTOR Lada/15* Wexlef Patented Feb. 23, 1943 GARMENrcoNsTRUCTIoN Louis Wexler, Brooklyn, N.`Y., .assignor to Lustberg, Nast & Co.,.Inc., New York, N. Y., a c orporation of New York Application August 19, 1942, Serial N o. 455,287

6 Claims.

My present Vinvention relates generally to garments, and has particular reference to outdoor garments of Weather-resistant character.

A general object of my invention is to provide an outer garment, such as a raincoat, overcoat, jacket, or the like, which is constructed in such a manner that the usual side seams and shoulder seams may be dispensed with. This not only increases the eiiciency of the garment in protecting and shielding the wearer from inclemencies of weather, but permits a number of economies of manufacture to be effected.

A further object of my invention is to provide a garment in which the construction provides an integral cape-like portion which extends transversely across vthe upper part of the back, thereby further enhancing `the ability of the garment to protect the wearer against rain, snow, or the like.

A garment constructed in accordance with the present invention is characterized by aside portion which is formed of a single blank of material, the material being cut and shaped to define a back section and a front section, with a cut-out between these sections to define the arm hole.

The material adjacent to the arm hole, in front and in back, is prolonged upwardly to provide a pair of projecting portions of matching size and contour. These portions are arranged face to face in superposed relation, and the resultant two-ply extension is folded downwardly and rearportions which extend upwardly on each side of each arm hole. These portions are so designed that a workmanlike and attractive t is provided for at the shoulder portions of the garment, and so that the resultant cape-like portion in the back is not only of pleasing appearance, but fulfills certain reinforcing and protective functions in a highly satisfactory manner and with a minimum of material.

In general, it is an object of my invention to ,i

provide a garment which is of highly presentable appearance, of staunch and rugged weather resistant character, and relatively inexpensive to manufacture from the standpoint of material and labor required.

I achieve the foregoing objects and such other objects as may hereafter appear or be pointed out in the manner illustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawings in which- Figure 1 is a perspective view of a garment constructed in accordance with the present invention, as it appears from the.front When Worn;

Figure 2 is a similar view, from the back;

Figure 3 is a side view of the upper portion of the garment;

Figure 4 is a view similar to Figure 3 showing the collar portion turned up; n

Figure 5 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line 5 5 of Figure 3;

Figure 6 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line 6 5 of Figure 4;

Figure '7 is a plan View of the vmain blank of material entering into the construction of the garment of Figures 1-6;

Figure 8 is a fragmentary view showing one of the first steps in constructing the garment;

Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure '8; taken from the side which will ultimately be the rear of the garment, showing a succeeding step of manufacture; and

Figure 10 is a View similar to Figure 9 showing a further step.

The garment which I have chosen to illustrate is of the raincoat variety, and is of the preferred construction in which the front sectionsand the back are constructed of a single blank of material. This blank is shown most clearly in Figure 7.

The blank which I have illustrated is a single sheet of suitable garment material cut and shaped to define a back section I0, and front sections II and I2. Between the sections Il! and II, a cutout I3 is provided to define one of the arm holes. A similar cut-out I4 is provided between sections I!) and I 2. At the mid-portion of the upper edge a cut-out I 5 is formed whose lower edge I5 defines the rear portion of the neck line. The forward portions of the neck line are defined by the edges I1.

The material adjacent to the arm hole I4, both `at Vthe front and back, is prolonged upwardly to provide the projecting portions I8 and I9, these portions being of symmetrical or matching size and contour so that they may be brought into superposed registering relation, as shown in Fig ure 8, when the front section I2 is folded forwardly onto the back section I0. More particularly, it will be observed that the prolongation I8 has a relatively short side edge 23, a relatively long opposite side edge 2I and an end 22. The edge 2I is preferably of slightly convexed character and it has a length which is suicient to extend at least halfway across the back of the completed garment. The side edge of the prolongation I8 has a length which is substantially equal to, or slightly longer than, one-half of the neck line I6. The prolonged portion I9 is symmetrically cut.

A similar pair of portions 23 and 24 are formed adjacent to the arm hole I3.

In constructing the garment, the front section I2 is folded over as shown in Figure 8, and the prolonged portions I8 and I9 thus define a twoply extension. The side and end edges of this extension are preferably joined together by stitching. This extension is then folded downwardly and rearwardly, as indicated in Figure 9, so that the edge 20 and the corresponding edge of the prolongation I9 are brought into substantial registry with the neck line edge I6, and all of these edges are then stitched together.

Similar steps are taken in connection with the prolongations 23 and 24 adjacent to the arm hole I3. That is, the front section II is folded forwardly so as to bring the portions 23 and 24 into superposed relationship, thereby defining a twoply extension at that side of the garment. This extension is folded downwardly and rearwardly as indicated in Figure 10. The edge which is uppermost is stitched to the neck line edge I6 and the end edges or end portions of the extension are joined together, preferably at the mid-portion of the back and along a substantially vertical line.

'Ihese two extensions thus complement each other in forming a cape-like portion which extends transversely across the upper part of the back of the garment.

In completing the garment, sleeves 25 are formed in any desired manner, and are associated with the arm holes I3 and I4 in the usual way. During this procedure, the lateral ends of the cape-like portion are stitched down. 'Ihe other parts of the garment may be formed in any usual manner. I have illustratively shown the manner in which a collar portion 26 and an insert member 21 may be associated with the neck line of the garment. The insert member 21 is not as long as the collar portion 26, and is tapered at its opposite ends. It contributes to the proper shaping of the collar portion of the garment. I have also shown lapels 28 formed in the usual way as integral portions of the front edges of the garment, these edges and lapels being preferably formed by folding the marginal region of each of the front sections II and I2 inwards upon itself. A belt 29, and a pocket or pockets 30 may also be provided, if desired.

It will be observed that the garment is composed, at each side, of a single piece of material forming a back section and a front section of continuous character so that the garment is devoid of the usual side seams. Also, the material is so cut and constructed in the shoulder region that this same continuous unseamed condition extends completely over and around the shoulder portion. In the preferred construction herein illustrated and describedy the two side portions of the garment are integrally connected at the back by virtue of the fact that a single blank of material, as shown in Figure 7, is used. As a result, the garment is also devoid of any vertical seam in the back.

The cape-like portion which is produced by means of the present construction 'is useful and desirable because of the extra protection it affords. It will be observed that each of the twoply extensions is folded down along the shoulder line, as indicated by the reference numeral 3l in Figures 5, 9, and 10. This causes the two-ply protective cape-like portion to extend across the back from shoulder line to shoulder line.

In general it will be understood that the details herein described and illustrated may be modied by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims. It is therefore intended that these details be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim is new and desire to cover by Letters Patent is:

l. In an outer garment of the character described, front and back sections formed of a single blank of material provided with cut-outs to define arm holes, the material adjacent to each arm hole at the front and back being prolonged upwardly to provide matching portions which are arranged face to face in superposed relationship, the two-ply extensions thus formed being folded downwardly and rearwardly and joined together to dene a cape-like protective portion extending across the upper part of the back of the garment, whereby the back, front, and shoulder portion at each side of the garment is of continuous unseamed character.

2. In an outer garment of the character described, front and back sections formed of a single blank of material provided with a medial cut-out to dene the rear neck-line and lateral cut-outs to dene arm holes, the material adjacent to each arm hole at the front and back being prolonged upwardly to provide matching portions which are arranged face to face in superposed relationship, the two-ply extensions thus formed being folded downwardly and rearwardly and joined together to define a cape-like protective portion extending across the upper part of the back of the garment, the upper edge of said cape-like portion being secured to the edge of the cut-out defining said rear neck-line, whereby the back, front, and shoulder portion at each side of the garment is of Continous unseamed character.

3. In an outer garment, the construction set forth in claim 1, said extensions being folded along the shoulder lines whereby the cape-like portion extends from shoulder line to shoulder line.

4. In an outer garment, the construction set forth in claim 1, said extensions being of such a size and shape that their ends meet along a vertical line at the middle of the back, said extensions being secured together along said line.

5. In an outer garment of the character described, front and back sections formed of a single blank of material provided with a medial cut-out to define the rear neck-line and lateral cut-outs to define arm holes, the material adjacent to each arm hole at the front and back being prolonged upwardly to provide matching portions which are arranged face to face in superposed relationship, the two-ply extensions thus formed being folded downwardly and rearwardly and joined together to dene a cape-like protective portion extending across the upper part of the back of the garment, said extensions being of a size and shape so that their ends meet along a vertical line at the middle of the back, and so that the upper edge of said cape-like portion conforms to the edge of the cut-out dening said rear neckline while the lower edge of said cape-like portion is substantially horizontal across the entire back, said extensions being secured together along said vertical line, and said upper edge of the cape-like portion being secured to said neck-line, whereby the back, front, and shoulder portion at each side of the garment is of continuous unseamed character integral with said cape-like portion.

6. In an outer garment of the character described, each side portion of the garment being formed of a single blank defining a front section and a back section and a cut-out between said sections dening an arm hole, the material adjacent to the arm hole at the front and back being prolonged upwardly to provide matching portions which are arranged face to face in superposed relationship, the two-ply extension thus formed being folded downwardly and rearwardly to define part of a cape-like protective portion extending transversely across the upper part of the back, each side portion of the garment being thus of continuous integral character devoid of both a side seam and a shoulder seam.

LOUIS WEXLER. 

